Surfing

Hey Dad,

So today I did something that would probably not be on your bucketlist, I went surfing! I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to not surf in Waikiki!

I got up and walked down to the beach. A group class was half the price of a private lesson, so I opted for that. The guy told me I could be waiting a while but a private lesson would go now. I called his bluff figuring there was no one booked in for a group lesson and said I didn’t mind waiting. I grabbed a shave ice and laid out on the beach and waited. Well nearly an hour went by, and I was right, there was no one booked in. Private lesson for me! 

We went through the basics, which I kind of already knew and headed out into the water. Shock horror dad, I have no upper body strength! Paddling out against the current was tough! My arms were killing me. The instructor; an over weight guy in his 50s explained how to catch a wave. I caught it first time, and even stood up! Spending a few years on that land board of mine helped with that, especially turning the board so I didn’t crash straight into the rocks. It was awesome! But then I realised I had to paddle back out. Ouch! 

After an hour of paddling out, I was done. I didn’t have a rashie on and could feel my skin catching on the board, my arms were jelly and I realised eating a shave ice beforehand was both my best decision. One last wave and we headed back in. 

I received a chorus of ‘you’re a natural’ and wondered how many people they say that too. Feeling exhausted I decided the best idea would be to go back to the hotel, get the sand off me and head to the hotel pool. 

I sat and swam for a few hours, and even managed to finish my book! Hungry I ventured out for one last walk around Waikiki. 

So once again, packing to get on a flight. Tomorrow I leave for San Francisco!

Night dad x

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